AT THE TABLE WITH SAM ANDREWS

We’ve been a fan since we first tasted Sam’s food at Duck Soup, Soho’s tiny but revered seasonal small plates restaurant. Catching up at The Waterman’s Arms, Sam cooked a Spiky Artichoke and Cocco Bianco salad. Light but warm and ideal for this time of year, get the recipe here.

Tell us a bit about yourself? What made you want to become a chef?

As a kid I was quite a fussy eater which I believe came from very traumatic memories of food at nursery. I had been fed these tinned ravioli that were weirdly sugary sweet, I didn’t get it and didn’t like it and wasn’t allowed to leave the table until I finished it. I was trapped whilst friends were allowed to play outside and I think this made me suspicious about food, and part of getting over this was learning how to cook things for myself.

I worked in the pub whilst I was studying Sound Art and Design, and started working a few shifts in the kitchen. From then I was continuously seduced by food and cooking until it was my full time job.

Where have you previously worked?

Most recently at Camberwell Arms for four years and then more formative years at Duck Soup in Soho, finished as Head Chef, started as a Sous. Those places were where I found my cooking identity and was introduced to Natoora. Back then you guys were getting certain ingredients for the first time and you definitely had to treat them simply, in a way that showcased the produce.

The Waterman’s Arms opened in September 2023, what have you learnt about opening a restaurant?

In some ways it’s been challenging, filling out the teams and finding people that live out west. Luckily we’ve started with a solid core team of people that I've worked with before and they are a huge reason the restaurant is doing well.

We’ve had to adjust to a different clientele compared to my previous jobs and we’ve learnt different structures of service but luckily we haven’t had to go back on the key elements of how we like to cook. We’re pretty grateful to have an audience that is interested in it. We want to give people what we think is best, we want to feed people, in a thoughtful and slightly creative way but not overly ‘done’.

What is The Waterman’s Arms bringing to west London?

Considered cooking. We’ve worked on a menu that gives our diners what they want — market fish is a big hit and we continue to have specials as a focus and do these well. We’re providing people with a precious meal, rather than showing them how technically brilliant we are, even though we take a huge amount of care over every element.

For those coming to The Waterman’s Arms, is there anything you’d suggest people should definitely try?

What drew me to this place is that it’s waterside. We kid ourselves that it’s the sea and not actually the Thames! But it puts you in the mood for fish and seafood. Right now, the scallop starter is going down really well, it’s baked over charcoal with curry butter, finished with yoghurt and some other secret ingredients.

I’m also a big fan of our other snacky fish dishes, the red mullet starter has been on from the beginning and hard to change. It’s what we aim for with every dish, as simple as possible but amounting to a lot, the sum is much greater than the parts — a simply steamed piece of fish, with the resting juices finished with bay, olive oil and a few other things.

Best seat in the house?

With summer coming up it’s going to be the balcony on the first floor, overlooking the Thames and also the little ledges out the front. When we were opening and caught the last of the summer, we’d always sit outside and snack on our experiments watching the sun set onto the building over the Thames, it’s gorgeous.

Where do you go for cheap eats in the city?

I really like Lahore kebab house in Aldgate, it’s just so delicious. Bizarrely it’s the only time I'd order a Korma because it was recommended, and when I had it for the first time the ground almond had formed little pellets, not sure if it was intentional but it added up to something really special. Little nuggets of delight. It’s really good value, lots of fun and has a great atmosphere.

And for a special occasion?

I think Leo’s on Chatsworth Road — it’s a lovely date spot run by really great people. It balances elevated and technically ambitious but it’s still very recognisably traditional Sardinian, regional food. There, and 40 Maltby Street in Bermondsey.

Any new openings that you’re excited about?

I’m a little bit out of the loop but I'm excited to try Camille, in Borough. The head chef Elliot is very good and I'm of Duck Soup heritage so I always like to support their work.